TIPS & TECHNIQUES

LAYING TRACK IN THE GARDEN - A SHORT COURSE IN CIVIL ENGINEERING
 
     We all enjoy the sight of a model train running on our layouts. It doesn't matter whether it is peddler freight or a main line run, the sight is both relaxing and inspiring. I have already covered the mechanics of coupler height and wheel spacing and how they can affect train operation in previous articles.  I was watching some old videos of layouts in California and the Georgia Garden Railway Society the other night. I cringed at what I saw, because no one cared enough to properly lay the track. Trains wobbled, jerked, and came close to derailing on every railroad.  This article will be all about track work. I will present some simple rules that have worked well for myself and others that I correspond with.  I hope to build a new Live Oak and Northern, and as such, I have been reviewing all my information on laying track. It does not matter whether your track is brass, stainless steel, or aluminum; these rules pertain to all track types in the outdoors.
        One of the most important tools for good outdoor track work is a set of levels. I have several in my tool box from six inches to four feet long that I constantly use when laying track. Level track is a MUST. Without level track, your trains will constantly uncouple and derail and cause you a great deal of  frustration. Yes, you may want your track to go uphill and down, but have it move that way gradually and smoothly. Don't have your trains bouncing up and down along a section of track. The prototype may be able to do it, but our small models will not handle it well. Besides being level along it's length, track must also be level from side to side, Don't let one side of your rails sit higher that the other. I know some modelers "super elevate" their curves, but I am not a fan of this.
        Always use the longest straight sections of track that you can.  This helps with both electrical continuity, and allows for smoother runs. Sight down your straight sections while laying track, and straighten out any kinks or wiggles at rail joiners that may cause future problems. I used a lot of three and five foot track lengths with excellent results on my last layout.
        Try to use the broadest curves that will fit in your available space.  Most trains work best on eight foot diameter, but what a difference it makes if you can use ten foot or twenty foot diameter curves. This is especially true with longer rolling stock like passenger cars.  Avoid ever having any "S" curves if you can. The lateral forces on your trains through an "S" curve will cause derailments and uncoupling. If you need an "S" curve, make it a broad diameter one and always put a section of straight track in the middle between the curves to smooth out the transition.
        Use the largest diameter turnouts that will fit within your layout. Level them completely both lengthwise and from side to side. Do not place them where your track is going uphill or down hill or just before a curve. If you build a crossover between main lines, put a short straight section between the turnouts to avoid the "S curve lurch".  Sidings should always use "trailing" rather than facing turnouts.  This will prevent your locomotives from "picking" the facing turnout points and derailing.  It also eliminates having to build a locomotive "run-around" track. This is especially true if you run operations and are setting out and picking up cars along your main line.
        A re-railer is always nice to have, and many people put them on each of their main lines to make up for track irregularities, which cause wheels to come off the track.
           As I mentioned, on my last layout, I used mostly five foot straight track, ten foot and twenty foot curves, and Aristo wide-radius turnouts (see my article on improving them) with Sunset Valley manual throws. These throws lock the points and prevent movement when a train passes over them. They were a big improvement over the Aristo throws that came with the turnouts. 
            One last tip, I have used Hillman rail clamps with a great deal of success. They improve electrical continuity, and do an excellent job of keeping my track lined up and together.
 
        By following these tips, your garden railroad will perform better and you will get more enjoyment out of running your trains.